delusional *and* stubborn
Mathieu and I spent another beautiful summer Saturday climbing at Rumney. Excited to go this weekend, I insisted that we wake up early so we could have a long day. The result was that we were both sleepy and tired all day. The first route of the day didn't help.
Last night I was told in a dream that we *must* go to Jimmy Cliff. There are a bunch of moderate routes there, many of which we had done before but not since last summer. I'm not my strongest right now so slabby, technical routes are right up my alley.
We saw a posting on the parking lot bullitin board for a new route, a 5.7, next to Hammond Organ, the 5.10d there. When we got up the cliff, our first two choice routes were taken so we decided to do the 7. I couldn't remember which side of Hammond Organ the new route was so I picked the route that had shinier bolts and more lichen on it.
The first few bolts were easy and fun-- perhaps not 5.7 easy but not worse than 5.9 easy; it was my first route of that day so things felt funny anyhow. When I reached the third bolt, the other climbers in the crag started giving me a hard time, saying I was on the 5.10d. I was swept over with a wave of arrogance, insisted it was the 7, and continued to climb the route.
When I reached the crux, it became abundantly clear that I was not on a 7, that it was definately a 10d, and that my fingers were not warmed up enough to handle pulling on tiny crimps. A Rumney 10d is difficult for me in any case-- most of my projects last fall were at that grade-- and first thing in the morning when I'm not climbing at my peak, its pretty darn hard.
But I was delusional that I could do it and I worked on the crux for a good twenty minutes (not ever getting it), I was also stubborn because I didn't want to come down and admit to the other climbers that I was wrong and they were right. So, with poor Mathieu belaying me, I fought the route until I didn't have much left.
Mathieu shouted up one of his incredibly sensible suggestions, "Perhaps you should come down and we can warm up and then try it again." After five more, "one last try"' 's and "I'm going to do it this time" I came down and we did some easier routes for a warm up.
I finally redpointed Junko, which was the source of a wickedly bad head day last summer (reachy move to a sloper while it started raining and a cute boy was belaying me). Getting that route was deliciously satisfying.
And we did the new 7 only to decide that it really, truely sucks. It climbs up a sharp corner (I ended up covered in little cuts and blood), where one wall is hollow rock and a fall means a pointy-rock-kind-of-head-injury. (Yes, I wore my helmet!)
We got back on the 10d but, exhausted, frustrated, confused, and a bit scared, we decided to project it.
So, after lunching at Waimea, a trip up Yoda (the most popular route at Rumney-- and overhanging and committing 5.9) and Mathieu's lead of a route at the 5.8 crag, we called it a day and jumped in the swimming hole.
This swimming hole is the most refreshing water I've ever been in. I don't know if its because its cool water washes off all the sweat, chalk, and sunscreen of a long day of climbing while the temperature and current are just right for cooling sore muscles, or if its been enchanted by magical fairies and pixies in the night. But it is a fabulous way to end a day at Rumney.
Last night I was told in a dream that we *must* go to Jimmy Cliff. There are a bunch of moderate routes there, many of which we had done before but not since last summer. I'm not my strongest right now so slabby, technical routes are right up my alley.
We saw a posting on the parking lot bullitin board for a new route, a 5.7, next to Hammond Organ, the 5.10d there. When we got up the cliff, our first two choice routes were taken so we decided to do the 7. I couldn't remember which side of Hammond Organ the new route was so I picked the route that had shinier bolts and more lichen on it.
The first few bolts were easy and fun-- perhaps not 5.7 easy but not worse than 5.9 easy; it was my first route of that day so things felt funny anyhow. When I reached the third bolt, the other climbers in the crag started giving me a hard time, saying I was on the 5.10d. I was swept over with a wave of arrogance, insisted it was the 7, and continued to climb the route.
When I reached the crux, it became abundantly clear that I was not on a 7, that it was definately a 10d, and that my fingers were not warmed up enough to handle pulling on tiny crimps. A Rumney 10d is difficult for me in any case-- most of my projects last fall were at that grade-- and first thing in the morning when I'm not climbing at my peak, its pretty darn hard.
But I was delusional that I could do it and I worked on the crux for a good twenty minutes (not ever getting it), I was also stubborn because I didn't want to come down and admit to the other climbers that I was wrong and they were right. So, with poor Mathieu belaying me, I fought the route until I didn't have much left.
Mathieu shouted up one of his incredibly sensible suggestions, "Perhaps you should come down and we can warm up and then try it again." After five more, "one last try"' 's and "I'm going to do it this time" I came down and we did some easier routes for a warm up.
I finally redpointed Junko, which was the source of a wickedly bad head day last summer (reachy move to a sloper while it started raining and a cute boy was belaying me). Getting that route was deliciously satisfying.
And we did the new 7 only to decide that it really, truely sucks. It climbs up a sharp corner (I ended up covered in little cuts and blood), where one wall is hollow rock and a fall means a pointy-rock-kind-of-head-injury. (Yes, I wore my helmet!)
We got back on the 10d but, exhausted, frustrated, confused, and a bit scared, we decided to project it.
So, after lunching at Waimea, a trip up Yoda (the most popular route at Rumney-- and overhanging and committing 5.9) and Mathieu's lead of a route at the 5.8 crag, we called it a day and jumped in the swimming hole.
This swimming hole is the most refreshing water I've ever been in. I don't know if its because its cool water washes off all the sweat, chalk, and sunscreen of a long day of climbing while the temperature and current are just right for cooling sore muscles, or if its been enchanted by magical fairies and pixies in the night. But it is a fabulous way to end a day at Rumney.
posted by Michelle at 10:29 p.m.
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