jammin'
I spent a lovely weekend in North Conway climbing at Cathedral. I had never been there before (even though it is so close!) and it sure was a treat! It is rare to have warm & dry enough weather to go climbing this late in the season so this was true bonus climbing. (By "warm" and "dry" I mean 50F and misting & foggy)
On Saturday after a long breakfast, Scott, Wanda and I headed for the North End and did some crack climbing. I'm new to crack climbing so this crag gave me lots of opportunities to practice my jams.
Scott leading They Died Laughing (5.9):



Here I am learning how to jam. On these routes, you can't get away with 5.10 moves on the face or lay-backing the crack. Its either jam or don't move up.





I took this at the top of Birds Next (5.9).

Here is Wanda getting ready to lead Childs Play (5.6). (I was going to lead this route but chickened out when I tried the committing opening moves. Eeek. Someday...)
On Saturday after a long breakfast, Scott, Wanda and I headed for the North End and did some crack climbing. I'm new to crack climbing so this crag gave me lots of opportunities to practice my jams.
Scott leading They Died Laughing (5.9):



Here I am learning how to jam. On these routes, you can't get away with 5.10 moves on the face or lay-backing the crack. Its either jam or don't move up.





I took this at the top of Birds Next (5.9).

Here is Wanda getting ready to lead Childs Play (5.6). (I was going to lead this route but chickened out when I tried the committing opening moves. Eeek. Someday...)

2 Comments:
do you call jam the matching (hand/foot matching)?
A hand or foot "jam" is when you stick your hand or foot in a crack and squeeze/twist/contort so that it gets stuck. You then put weight on it to move upwards. After you've moved up a big, you relax/un-twist/contort the jammed body-part to remove it from the crack. Repeat as necessary.
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