When I went to Trieste, Italy, for a string theory summer school a few years ago, I had enormous difficulty finding a climbing partner. Of the hundred or so graduate students attending, none of them climbed. It was shocking given the lovely limestone in northern Italy and the sport-climbing mecca of Osp a few hours away in Slovenia. I managed to get some climbing in by meeting people at the local crag and by going to Cortina in the Dolomites and hiring a guide.
I wasn’t about to let that happen again. As soon as I arrived in Boulder last week, I found out where the rock gym was, headed over and put up a flyer. (it was raining, anyhow.) I also discovered
climbingboulder.com and listed myself in the “looking for partners” section.
Enter the freak show.
I made a point of meeting potential partners before climbing with them and I promised myself that I would listen to my instincts. After a week of this, I started to get cynical. A few examples:
One guy, over the course of an hour, told me all about how wickedly mean his parents are, how they kept him from going to college, all about how happy he is to be divorced and be a “free man.” I noticed that all of his climbing partners are young women. I ran like hell.
And here are some excepts from an email I got:
Ciao' Michelle! I boulder up and down the Front Range, I just got back from Horsetooth where I sent a string of problems that I have been waiting on to dry out after all the rain_we have had here. Tilt Boulder, Dred Face, Surplomb, Prow, they all went down. I know all the areas around the Horsetooth intimately, so if you want to see the sights I can show you about. So far, seems ok. He ranted about local climbing areas and then wrote this:
As far as what I climb, the higher and scarier the better. I am a very experienced soloist, rock climbs, ice climbs, alpine climbs, mixed climbs, I've done them all un-roped. My bouldering reflects my interest in this type of climbing experience, I have a good head for being way off the deck and climbing hard.Yikes. And then he included this photo (and
only this photo):

Then I met Annette. She is a local, a little bit older than me, a bit of a traddie and she climbs sport at about the same level. She is pleasant and funny (and not lonely or crazy!). Plus she has a big brown friendly dog.
We headed out yesterday and did a couple of routes in Boulder Canyon. We warmed up leading
a slabby 5.7 and then set up a toprope on
a wicked little 10d. Last year I was hang-dogging and having head problems on Rumney’s 10d’s so I was delighted to try this on TR. It was a beautiful route—a nice flat arête for my left hand and thin little crimps and ridges for my right and feet, all on orange granite.
We got out late but managed to get a few climbs in before it got dark. I had a fabulous time and we’re definitely going to get out again.
It turns out that a handful of the
TASI folks are into climbing. They aren’t as willing to play hookey from lectures during the week but we managed to get out to Boulder Canyon for a few routes last Saturday (before the rain kicked in).

We were originally planning to go to Avalon but wussed out when we saw the Tyrolean traverse over the spring rapids. None of us had done one before and there were beginners with us so it seemed like a bad idea.


We drove further up the canyon and went to the Sport Park where you can walk across the (chilly!) river holding onto a fixed rope. With numbed legs, we hiked up to the crag and did a couple of routes.


I’m not sure what we climbed but I think it was a 5.8 (that felt a lot like
Jimmy Cliff at Rumney) and something that may have been a 9 or 9+ up a crack/corner to a tricky slab with thin high steps (that reminded me of Lonesome Dove at Jimmy).


I took this photo at the top of one of the routes.

(I can't get used to the fantastically beautiful, colorful big skies here)