project fatigue

I had an entire week off of climbing, running and everything else fun to let my ankle tendonitis heal. Its just as well-- it was raining cats and dogs here. I waited a few extra days to let Rumney dry out and headed up there yesterday with Chris and Whitey. It was still damp-- water seeping out-- but many of the routes were dry.

I have a million excuses for not climbing well (doesn't everybody?)-- tired, hung over, sore, stressed out, ate too much ice cream, didn't eat enough ice cream, out of shape, bad head day, too much coffee, bad vibe at the crag...

Yesterday's excuse: project fatigue.

We warmed up on Holderness Arete and Masterpiece (I was nervous! My head wasn't in it, I couldn't focus, get in the zone... excuses, excuses!) and then I jumped on Centerpiece hoping to get my RP. I borrowed Chris' hat to prevent the sun catastrophe of last time (the bright sun glares off the rock making it impossible to see the holds. All depth perception disappears and everything looks white!). Chris even prehung the draws, making the clips much much easier for me!

I pulled through the first five bolts and made it to the thank-gawd flake rest where I chilled out for a few minutes. I then worked my way up the slopey traverse to the block-of-doom where I suddenly LOST MY FAITH and, dammit, I fell.

I got uncomfortable at the block, was tired and I wasn't hungry for it. Sometimes it takes that hunger to do hard moves. Whenever I boulder, I hear people say, "Do it like you mean it." It means put yourself into the move with everything you've got when you're beyond your comfort zone.

Why wasn't I hungry for Centerpiece? I've been working on it for two months, getting on it nearly everytime I got to Rumney. I think I'm getting tired of it. So, as a project, its going on the back burner for a few weeks. I'm heading off on a short road trip tomorrow-- going to the Gunks and the New.

Here are some pics of Chris on Cereal Killer (I didn't get on it but hope to work my way up to it this summer. Its a pumpy 11c)






Weather report: the leaves are out, making for some nice shade. It was warm and started to get pretty muggy in the afternoon. The bugs are out, black flies and all! The swimming hole is quite high and pretty cold (I only made it in up to my thighs!).

In other news: I'm busy writing my thesis. I'm at 65 pages right now. Woohoo!

rumney & graduation

I've been up to Rumney three times since I last posted. Each time has been a lot of fun but I'm getting bored with photos and the monotony of posting about the same thing every week. So here are some highlights from the last three trips

1. I rd'ed my first 5.11a-- Three Easy Pieces. Woohoo!
2. I rp'ed Things As They Are (10c), braving my way through the traverse to slopers at the top
3. I'm *still* working on Centerpiece. Dude-- thats a hard route!
4. I hopped on Peer Pressure (10d) but didn't stick my leg behind the flake at the crappy handhold at the piton. Fell. Tried it four more times and was too wiped to get through that section. Its a project now!
5. Avery continues to be an excellent crag dog. While hiking, when she encounters a boulder she can't hop up, she bellies up it like a seal.

Now its raining raining raining. I'm not upset-- it gives me no excuse to not take a week off and let the tendonitis in my foot heal. No running or climbing. Even swimming is painful. So, nothing to do but work on my thesis.

Did I tell you that I'm trying to graduate?